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Jewelry & watch expert Bill Green goes over popular metal, leather, & fabric watch band styles
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You might be familiar with different watch styles and functions, but did you know there are also different types of watch bands? The different parts of the band might be confusing for watch newbies, but we're here to break it down for you! Read on for a guide to watch bands, including metal, leather, nylon, and rubber bands. We’ll also explain the differences between a watch band, a watch strap, and a bracelet, plus provide a quick overview of watch band parts, with insights from jewelry & watch expert Bill Green.

Types of Watch Bands by Material

Section 1 of 6:

Metal Watch Bracelets

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  1. Oyster metal bracelets are known for their long, thick, 3-piece link design. The most popular metal bracelet type among watch bands, the Oyster has a wide center bar that makes each link more durable. They’re considered one of the most functional options and are popular among Rolex bracelets, though they might feel a bit stiff at times.[1]
    • Style: Modern, classic, robust
    • Examples: Rolex models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer, and Daytona
    • Lug width is the distance (in millimeters) between 2 lugs on a watch case. A metal bracelet must match the watch’s lug width; a bracelet that is too small can come loose, while one that is too big just won’t fit.
    • The average lug width for men’s watch metal bracelets is 20 mm, though for both men and women, it typically ranges from 18 to 24 mm.
    • Green notes that many metal watch bracelets are produced by the watch manufacturers themselves and often feature proprietary link designs. However, other bracelets resemble more traditional or widely used bracelet styles.[2]

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    Bill Green is a jewelry & watch expert with over 40 years of industry knowledge. He’s also the founder and creative director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix and the founder and designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry.

  2. President bracelets have links that are of a similar width to the Oyster style, but with more total links. Each link is also shorter and denser in appearance. They may not be as durable as the Oyster, but they are considered to be more versatile. President bracelet styles work best for smaller or medium-sized watches.[3]
    • Style: Dressy, formal
    • Examples: Rolex Day-Date, Omega Aqua Terra, Hamilton Jazzmaster
    • According to Green, you can adjust a watch band with a metal bracelet if it has a “snap-down deployment buckle by depressing the spring bar and moving it closer to the center (to make it smaller).”[4]
    • While it’s possible to remove links, Green goes on to say that “there are some watch bands where you don't remove links.” To adjust these metal watch bracelets, you’d “open up the slider on the bracelet—it will slide one way or the other. Once it feels comfortable, snap it back down. Think of it as a belt with a slider.”[5]
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  3. Jubilee bracelets feature a 5-piece link design with 3 smaller, polished center links between 2 larger, brushed/polished outer (side) links. They have the same number of links as the President bracelet, but the triple-wide construction of Jubilee watches makes the bracelet's center portion appear narrower. It works on both large and small-sized watches, depending on how you want to wear your watch.[6]
    • Style: Elegant, classy
    • Examples: Rolex Datejust, Rolex GMT-Master II, Seiko Sports GMT
  4. Engineer bracelets are more stacked, with a width consisting of 5 links total. The links are often cut in a hexagon-like pattern, giving them a unique, angular appearance. They can feel heavy at times or look bulky if not paired with the right watch. Engineer bracelets were made with dive watches in mind, and they are still the most popular bracelet choice for sporty and dive watches.[7]
    • Style: Sporty, rugged
    • Examples: Seiko diver and sport models, IWC Ingenieur
  5. Mesh bracelets have interwoven metal wires (usually stainless steel) that give them a flexible, chainmail-like design. They’re known for being comfortable, breathable, and easily adjustable. The design also makes mesh bracelets quite durable overall.[8]
    • Style: Casual or formal
    • Examples: Seamaster Ploprof 600m, Breitling Superocean Heritage 46
    • Shark mesh is a more robust style with larger links often used for diving watches.
    • Milanese mesh is more finely woven, which gives it a more delicate style.
    • Green notes that fine mesh or Milanese-style bracelets and traditional link bracelets are the most common styles. Bangle-style bracelets constructed from rigid sections tend to be less common today.[9]
    • Green adds that expansion bracelets are also common, which are spring-loaded so each section of the bracelet stretches independently. He says Speidel is especially well known for this design, as their Twist-O-Flex bracelets were widely popular in the mid-20th century.[10]
  6. Beads of rice bracelets have a 7-row, chainmail-like structure that includes a center row of small interlocking links. These rounded, polished links are said to resemble actual grains of rice and are surrounded by 2 outer rows of larger links. Beads of rice bracelets are known for their flexibility and overall comfort.[11]
    • Style: Classic, vintage, retro
    • Examples: Omega, Longines, TAG Heuer
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    Bill Green

    Bill Green

    Jewelry & Watch Expert
    Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.
    Bill Green
    Bill Green
    Jewelry & Watch Expert

    Choose a metal bracelet that’s comfortable and high quality. If you’re going to wear a metal bracelet, ensure it’s supple, moves naturally with the wrist, and is well-made from high-quality stainless steel.

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Section 2 of 6:

Leather Watch Straps

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  1. Aviator watch bands have metal rivets near the lugs, which prevent the watch from falling off the wrist. Originally associated with pilot watches during World War II, they are known for their thick and durable construction. Aviator watch bands pair particularly well with chronograph watches (which have a built-in stopwatch).[12]
    • Style: Modern, sporty, military
    • Examples: IWC Big Pilot's Watch, Breitling pilot watches
    • Green says popular materials for leather watch straps include calfskin, pigskin, and buffalo leather. More “luxury-style leathers” include crocodile, alligator, snakeskin, ostrich, and even stingray.[13]
    • Green adds that there are vegan alternatives, which include high-quality synthetic leathers and suedes. These replicate the look and feel of traditional leather without the use of animal products.[14]
    • Black and brown are the most common colors, says Green, but leather straps are available in virtually every color.[15]
  2. Nearly identical to aviator watch straps, Bund straps have a protective leather pad situated between the watch case and the wrist. This extra layer was originally intended to protect the wearer’s wrist from extreme temperatures and burns, while absorbing sweat. The additional piece can be a full cuff or a rounded pad, which can feel bulky for some.[16]
    • Style: Rugged, sporty, retro
    • Examples: Pilot watches made by Stowa, IWC, Laco, and Hamilton.
    • Play around with your watch’s look by changing the strap from a classic, dressy style to a more rugged, sporty one.
    • For instance, Green says thinner straps tend to look best on dressier watches, as they present a clean, elegant, and understated appearance.[17]
    • Green notes that choosing a leather strap that complements the dial and reflects your mood can dramatically change the personality of a watch.[18]
  3. A double-ridge watch strap is a rare style that most closely resembles an aviator-type of strap. The main difference includes 2 raised ridges running parallel along the strap’s length. It’s also thicker and more robust than other similar straps.[19]
  4. Rally watches have 3 or more large perforated holes below the lugs. They’re inspired by auto racing, which is why they’re known for being lightweight and comfortable. The retro look of rally watch straps makes them ideal when paired with a vintage choreograph (racing watch), and they’re breathable enough to be worn during the summertime.[21]
    • Style: Sporty, vintage
    • Examples: Invicta Men's Racing 48mm Chrono, Omega Speedmaster Racing
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Section 3 of 6:

Nylon Watch Straps

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  1. Originally made for astronauts going to space, NASA straps are made from very durable nylon weave with a Velcro fastening system. They’re longer than other watch bands because they were designed to be worn over a spacesuit. NASA straps are extra durable and are resistant to high temperatures.[22]
    • Style: Utilitarian, military
    • Examples: Omega Speedmaster Professional (Moonwatch), Bulova Lunar Pilot, Timex Main Street NASA Artemis
  2. According to Green, the NATO strap is the most widely recognized fabric strap. He says it’s “a long, single-piece strap with a buckle at one end that threads through the lugs, under the spring bars, beneath the watch case, and back around the wrist.” They are comfortable, affordable, and practical.[23] Because they’re typically made of nylon material, NATO straps are also water and sweat-resistant.[24]
    • Style: Modern, casual, military
    • Examples: IWC Pilot Watch, Tudor Black Bay, Omega Speedmaster
    • The NATO strap originated as 2-piece straps that have a separate piece of fabric that runs along under the watch case for more security.
    • Green adds that NATO straps are an “excellent choice for people with contact dermatitis or metal allergies, as the strap runs underneath the watch and creates a barrier between the case back and the skin, helping to reduce irritation.”[25]
  3. Zulu straps are very similar to NATO straps, but their materials are usually thicker. They’re one-piece, so they easily thread through a watch’s spring bars for added security. Zulu straps also have 3- to 5-ring straps, so they stay in place securely.[26]
    • Style: Rugged, military
    • Examples: Omega Speedmaster, Seiko Sumo, Tudor Heritage Ranger
  4. Perlon watch straps have a braided, woven pattern made from nylon-like material.[27] They look similar to Tropic watch straps, but don’t have perforated holes, which allows the buckle to slide through an opening in the weave easily. Perlon watch straps are known to be lightweight, breathable, and durable.[28]
    • Style: Modern, formal, casual
    • Examples: Rolex Milgauss, Rolex Datejust
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Section 4 of 6:

Rubber Watch Straps

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  1. Waffle watch straps have a diamond-shaped pattern on top that looks like a waffle iron. Underneath, these straps have large textured holes for breathability. They’re known for being waterproof and easy to clean.[29]
    • Style: Sporty, rugged, diver
    • Examples: Seiko dive watches (including King Turtle), Tissot PRX
  2. Tropic watch straps feature a textured “tapestry” design that includes perforations on the strap. Made from rubber, they are hypoallergenic and UV-resistant. Tropic watch straps are also known for their durability and comfort. When it comes to watch type pairing, they’re a favorite choice for dive watches.[30]
    • Style: Sporty, diving
    • Examples: Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
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Section 5 of 6:

Basic Watch Band Parts

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  1. The parts of a metal bracelet are usually made from stainless steel, titanium, or other precious metals. How the links are constructed can differ between bracelet styles, as can the type of clasp and end links used:[31]
    • Watch clasp: Attaches the 2 ends of a watch band to secure it around the wrist.
    • Watch clasp spring bar: A spring-loaded metal pin securing a watch band to the clasp.
    • Clasp spring bar hole: A watch clasp opening that receives the tip of a spring bar.
    • Micro holes: Small perforations that can be used to make adjustments to the band.
    • Tail short-end spring bar: A spring-loaded pin that connects the free end of the watch band to the clasp.
    • The link: One of the interconnected pieces that make up a metal watch bracelet.
    • End link: A piece that directly attaches to the watch case.
    • End link spring bar: A spring-loaded metal pin that connects a watch band to the case.
    • End piece screw: A threaded screw that fastens the links together.
    • Removable link screws: Small, threaded fasteners used to adjust links.
    • Green notes that there are several types of clasps:[32]
      • The deployant clasp folds and snaps shut securely, then opens in stages so the bracelet expands enough to slide the watch on or off the wrist, says Green. It’s the most common type.[33]
      • The butterfly clasp opens symmetrically, like two wings from a central hinge. Green says the longer center section allows for easy removal and creates a clean, uninterrupted look when it’s closed.[34]
      • Snap-style clasps hook onto a small bar on the adjustable portion of the bracelet, says Green. You simply snap it down to lock it in place, which allows for straightforward sizing while remaining secure.[35]
  2. Like metal bracelets, leather or fabric watch straps contain many of the same parts. They include the clasp, clasp spring bar, and micro holes. While leather or fabric straps are less technical, they have some additional parts that help secure the strap or are mainly visual:[36]
    • Strap/band: The piece of material that secures a watch to the wrist.
    • Stitching: The visible stitched pattern appearing along the edges of a watch strap.
    • Keeper: A small loop that holds down the excess strap after it's fastened.
    • Lining: The bottom layer of the watch strap that comes in contact with the wrist.
    • Strap ends: The parts of the watch strap that attach to the watch case.
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Section 6 of 6:

What’s the difference between a watch band, strap, and bracelet?

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  1. These terms are often used interchangeably, but a watch band is the broadest term for any material that secures a watch to someone’s wrist. A watch strap, on the other hand, is a continuous band made of flexible materials like leather, fabric, or rubber, while a watch bracelet is a specific band made of interlocking metal links, like stainless steel or gold.[37]
    • Both watch straps and bracelets are considered specific types of watch bands.

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  1. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  2. https://adiveintotime.com/beads-of-rice-bracelet/
  3. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
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  7. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-watch-strap-should-i-wear
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  10. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
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  12. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
  13. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
  14. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  15. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-watch-strap-should-i-wear
  16. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  17. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
  18. Yvette Jordan. Personal Wardrobe Stylist. Expert Interview
  19. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-watch-strap-should-i-wear
  20. https://www.primermagazine.com/2023/spend/a-comprehensive-guide-to-watch-straps
  21. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-watch-strap-should-i-wear
  22. https://youtu.be/T93UqPew_j4?t=104
  23. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  24. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  25. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  26. Bill Green. Jewelry & Watch Expert. Expert Interview
  27. https://www.chronocentric.com/watches/straps.shtml
  28. https://youtu.be/aqsgGzRslMo?si=Gccta2juxNNW6xcj&t=44

About This Article

Bill Green
Co-authored by:
Jewelry & Watch Expert
This article was co-authored by Bill Green and by wikiHow staff writer, Maryana Lucia Vestic, MFA, M.Phil.. Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople. This article has been viewed 1,056 times.
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Co-authors: 5
Updated: February 2, 2026
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Categories: Watches
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